Distracted by Sweaterknits

I was cleaning up after my session on the DK Coat last night when I came across a lovely grey wool sweater knit in my stash. It has been cold and yucky and miserable and that sweater knit looked so cozy. And it was perfect for Fall. I suddenly had to have something to wear out of it for church on Sunday....Or maybe I just didn't want to set the collar on the DK coat. I hate doing collar/front facings. Anyway, I decided to do a quick serger project for myself.

I settled on New Look 6730 for a quick basic skirt pattern. But I'm making a few changes. I'm angling the hem line asymmetrically for one. Secondly, this sweater knit has an interesting ruffled selvage. I cut it off and inserted it into the shorter side seam as a sort of piping. I only need to make the elastic casing and hem to finish up the skirt. Then I want to make a long sweater to go with it. Perhaps a wrap style and repeat the selvage ruffle at the neckline and/or cuffs. But I only have 2.5 yards left and this is only about 30 inches wide. So we'll have to see about the top...

Here's the pattern I'm using for the skirt. Haven't picked the pattern for the top yet.



And here's a pick of the selvage being basted onto the side seam allowance. I used orange thread so I could follow it as a guide when layering over the second skirt piece.




I should finish this skirt today. Then I'll finish the DK coat before going on to the top for this skirt.

Charity

Labor Day Pattern Sales

Vogue Patterns were on sale for $3.99 this weekend (at JoAnn's) and McCalls for $1.99. Vogues rarely go on sale, so I picked up a few I've been eyeing. I browsed through McCall's to see about picking up a few bargains, but was uninspired. Their Fall line is pretty lackluster. Here's what I did get...

Vogue's Marci Tilton Oriental Art Jacket - I'll be making this from the chinese coin dot silk I bought in Portland recently.





Vogue 7854 - Not sure what fabric I'll use for this year. I have a couple of light linens or sanded rayons in mind, but I loved the design lines, especially the divided side front.



Vogue 8464 - Love the unusual reversed princess lines on this one and the funky collar. I'm thinking it would be fun to do the facing and collar in a contrasting print and then pipe the bodice lines with the same.



McCalls 5195 - I don't usually like these draped jackets, but I have a sweaterknit in a salt/pepper tweed that is perfect for this. Shorter length, of course. If I have enough fabric I would make the skirt in the same.



McCalls 5570 - I haven't bought a child's pattern in forever. I've always loved these cloud skirts. I have a brown ombre satin that I think this would be lovely in. I'm debating it as part of the Northwest Children's Fund Auction I posted about HERE.



McCalls 5131 - I like to make children's costumes and this is a pattern I've been wanting to do for a long time. A Civil War historical ensemble. I will do this from authentic reproduction Civil War prints.



Charity

The Report From Fabric Mecca

This Fabric Shopping Report is brought to you courtesy of a failed septic system. The private school my youngest son attends sent all the students home early today due to a backed up septic system. I was due to work at the school setting up a mailing system for them. But here I am instead with a bit of unexpected free time on my hands. So I am at last reporting on my recent fabric shopping expedition to Portland, Oregon.

My MIL and I left bright and early. We have shopped Portland about three times now and are getting better and better at navigating the various highways and exits. We made it to Fabric Depot about mid-morning and spent about two hours there. Fabric Depot has some wonderful garment fabrics, but I was mostly concentrating on their elastic trims and 1930/40s repro fabrics. I bought some black, white and nude foldover elastic for sewing knitwear. I also bought some elastic trims for decorative knit edges in shades of olive, burgundy, black/silver and black/gold. I picked up 12 different 1930s prints to restock my quilting stash. I wish now that I had picked up even more. :( I'm always worrying about spending too much, restrain myself and then go home wishing I had stocked up more because it will be a couple of years before I can get back again. I also bought a lovely brown matte double-knit jersey in enough yardage to do either a dress or a top/skirt combo. That was all I bought at Fabric Depot. I was actually a bit disappointed in their garment fabrics this trip. Last time I remember there being so many more options. Dorothy (my MIL) was also a bit disappointed and remembers the garment section being a bit more inspiring on our last visit. We decided that we must have been caught right between seasons. Too late for summer bargains, but the Fall/Winter stuff not fully arrived yet.

We left and headed to the Milwaukee District to shop Mill End Outlet. While Fabric Depot is larger than Mill End, it is heaviest in its cotton and quilting selection. Mill End has a better selection of garment fabrics. We ate at Bob's Red Mill for lunch and I picked up a few whole grain products there.

We found that Mill End was in a similar transition between seasons. There were many lovely things, of course, but not quite as spectacular as we have found in the past. We usually shop Portland in late February and winter fabrics seem to be at their peak selection. Which for us Northwestern seamstresses is usually what we are hoping to find - those lovely coatings and wools and corduroys and fleeces! At Mill End I bought two fantastic contemporary rayon prints, one in brown and cream and the other in black, wedgewood and cream. I also bought a chinese silk that I just adored. And I bought several brown silks and silk blends. I also bought a packet of wool felt that I hope to use in making my Art Coat. I bought a bright vintage-styled floral to use in a little girl's design. I bought some distressed gray wool that reminds me of Issac Mizrahi's designs. Finally, I was thrilled to find an ikat design that I have been searching for for some time. I have a favorite jacket that has become worn. I hope to reproduce it using this new ikat.

Here are the photos:






















I was thrilled to be given this steam table by my MIL. She had purchased the latest release and I was the lucky recipient of her previous table. She also gave me this fantastic set of Gingher scissors and snippers. My old scissors were just about shot so what a timely gift!

Why Buckeye Sue Gets Her Own Post

Sue left me more comments in the Fabric Mecca Beckons post than I could deal with in a comments box. I had to bring it out here in the light of the day so I could handle all her questions. :) Plus...Sue came up with a way for me to rationalize any new fabric purchases. For that she deserves her own post.

Sue asked....

How do you inventory your fabrics?

I know some people keep really intricate inventories. I like to have my fabrics out where I can see them. So I don't feel a need to inventory samples into a notebook or anything. I sort my fabrics into open white plastic baskets by color only. I don't separate out knits from velvets from silks. When I design, I do so almost entirely based on color inspiration. The exception is extra bulky fabrics that would take up an entire basket themselves. They go in larger Rubbermaid containers, but there are few enough that I know what's in the bins. The other exception are fabrics on the bolt. They are stacked on the shelf where I can see them. And then quilting fabrics are the final exception. They are sorted by color into drawer units. I can see everything at a glance on my shelves.

Here...it's easier to show you.






I was asking about the fabrics shown in this post, "Fabric Mecca Beckons." Are those all from your stash?

No. Those are pics from the websites of the stores we will visit. :) The first one is from my inspiration files. I don't even remember where I got it.

And yes, you're right. I started with about 700 yards fabric. However, that includes all kinds, quilting, apparel for me, apparel for children, special occasion, home decorating, vintage collection, coatings, men's, knits, sleepwear, etc. When you spread it around to that many categories, it means that I don't always have a teen girl-appropriate bottom-weight fabric when I need it. I know, I know. Ungrateful brat.

Charity

Fabric Mecca Beckons

I am leaving August 6th for an on-a-whim trip. Craig and Casey were flying out to pick up our motor home and drive it back up the Al-Can Highway before winter sets in. Kind of a last Father and Son Hurrah before school starts. At the last minute I decided to go with them on the flight down and spend a few days with my MIL and nieces.



Every few years my MIL and I attend the Puyallup Sewing Expo together and have started adding in a trip to Portland, Oregon to fabric shop. There is limited shopping here in Alaska. A JoAnn's and a Wal-Mart. There is a good selection of quilt shops, but nothing that offers quality garment apparel. Since I haven't been able to make the Expo in some time, I'm overdue for a fabric stock-up!



I sew ALOT. This year alone I have sewed up almost 150 yards and it's only July. I do a great deal of service-oriented sewing, make a lot of gifts, as well as some of my own clothes. So I move through my stash at a pretty quick clip.



Portland is becoming a bit of a West Coast Fabric Mecca. My MIL and I like to visit the Pendleton factory, the Mill End Outlet, Josephine's Dry Goods (gorgeous stuff, but the snootiest saleswomen ever!), the Button Emporium and Ribbonry, Fabric Depot (largest fabric store in the nation) and others. We used to drop in at the Daisy Kingdom store in downtown Portland, but sadly it has been closed. We have not yet made it to Rose City Textiles, but perhaps we will this time.

So it's time to make my shopping list. Any suggestions as to what I should buy? Stores that didn't make my list? Where we should eat (HEALTHY FOOD!)? :)

Charity

Sunday Morning Contemplations

Trying to reduce my stash has been causing me to do more contemplation than normal.

I made another skirt last night. The same easy four gore skirt as below. From an equestrian print corduroy. After looking at the pattern, I realized that the front and back pieces are exactly the same. So instead of cutting out two pieces (two each for a total of four gores), why not stack the fabric four lengths high and cut out one piece four times. Then more thought...why not stack two or three skirts worth of lengths at a time and use my heavy duty rotary cutter, then assembly line production techniques and knock out several skirts at once? I'm trying to greatly reduce my stash this year and to fast from fabric purchases as much as possible (I have bought a few yards). Sewing three skirts at a time would eat up six yards in probably just a couple of hours.


Of my 750 remaining yards, probably about 400 are suitable for women's garments. The rest is home decor and children's. I was thinking that I might start sewing basic, somewhat easy pieces using assembly line techniques. Start stacking fabrics 2 or 3 lengths high, cutting with a rotary cutter and then use production technique sewing to really move fabric in the most efficient manner. Then I thought to myself, "WHY?"

Let's say that the average garment takes 3 yards. That means I could make 133 garments with the fashion fabric I have here at home. I don't work outside the home. Most of the fabrics I'm attracted to are dressier things, more suited for church and work. So how many skirts could I actually use? If I made 35 skirts this year (assuming I could even keep up that pace), how much use is each one actually going to get? And how many clothes does one person need anyway?

The fabrics aren't really suited for charity projects. I suppose I might be able to sew tons of forgiving fit skirts and easy-to-fit tops and donate them to some type of program that wardrobes impoverished women returning to the work force. Or I could send them to a girl's orphanage? Perhaps a dozen each of sizes 8,10,12,14,16 and 18?

It's interesting how this Fabric Fast is really causing me to re-evaluate the way I buy fabric. Even if I COULD sew up all my stash, do I really need to be so indulgent as to have that many clothes? How could I use my stash in a more fruitful, responsible manner? This is more than a Fabric Fast, it's really a reality check!

Charity

And Another One Bites the Dust

Finished! Because of the lining, the bias layout and the ruffles, this design ate up 7 yards from my stash. I have now used about 27 yards for the year. Twenty-seven down and 773 yards to go! I'm heading to bed!

Catholic School Girl Jumper

I bought the Daisy Kingdom pattern in the post below years ago. Of course, in the meantime, Daisy Kingdom went out of business and that fabric was discontinued. Without that fabric, it's just a plain ol' A-line jumper. However, since this is the year I am sewing down my stash, I'm not allowed to shop for it, even it if WAS still available. So I have to approximate with what I have on hand. I found two wool/rayon challis blends in my stash that will be used for the plaid jumper and the bias cut contrast plaid band. I found a paisley that I will use for the ruffles. Of course, it's the floral border down the side that is the style statement in this baby, but you can't have everything. The jumper is not lined and I am in "line everything that isn't nailed down" mode. I'm sold on lined garments. They drape better on the body. They're more comfortable. They wear well. They hide seam allowances. They're just classy. :) :) So I'll be lining the jumper instead of using facings. I am going to bind the neckline and armscyes with bias binding strips made from the paisley. I will also be repeating the paisley in a felted wool and yo-yo flower broach that I will make to adorn the front pocket.

Here is a rough mock-up. Side seams are done, red plaid is just pinned on so I can get the effect. The paisley will be the ruffles and binding. It smacks a little of Catholic School Girl to me. But I'm pretty sure it just needs the finishing details that always make a garment. If not...well...I'll have to convert to Catholicism.



UPDATE - I bound the pocket edges and attached it to the jumper front. I'm now playing around with felted wool and yo-yo to create a pocket embellishment. But no more tonight, I'm heading to bed and will pick this up tomm.



charity

Fabric Crush

I stopped into JoAnn's today to get some fiberfill to finish up some pillows. Stopping in at JoAnn's is always a risky endeavor on my part. I had good intentions of going straight to the stuffing and batting corner and then right back out again. But wouldn't you know it, store layout was such that I had to travel by the Clearance fabrics to get to the bags of fiberfill. And this little floral silliness caught my eye. Something about the color combo and the slightly whimsical nature of the motifs appealed to me. Made me smile. And of course, once I had snuggled that bolt under my arms (it was only $2 a yard!) I had to travel over to the regularly priced quilting fabrics to find a few coordinates! All in all, I only spent about $20 on 7.5 yards of fabric. I'm not sure what I'll make yet. I'm thinking a slightly funky little girl's dress. And the aqua dot definitely has to be a wren applique.

If you're wondering, I DID manage to remember the fiberfill! I really think there should be a law that JoAnn's has to dispense horse blinders at the door to all easily distracted patrons....



Charity

Overwhelmed by Choice

We had an escape at our house recently. No, not the hamster kind. Thankfully my sons are now safely past the small-pets-in-cages stage. This was the liberation of my fabric stash from their Rubbermaid incarceration. My thoughtful husband installed floor to ceiling shelves in my sewing room. Each shelf accommodates about 13 plastic baskets and each basket can hold 7-12 yards depending on the fabric weight. This means that almost all my fabrics are now in view. A view more breathtaking to me than our mountain-ringed valley. Even more awe-inspiring than a complete caramel cheesecake. I find myself standing in the middle of my sewing room and just staring at my stash in complete reverence. Five, ten, fifteen minutes can pass by and I'm still standing there, immobile, wondering how such a marvelous thing has come to pass. And it's all mine!! Incredulous! If my fabric stash could take on human form...(I'm sorry, dear)my husband would be in for some serious competition.

The only problem with a fabric stash in full display is that the mind's eye suddenly begins to spot dozens of combinations and possibilities that were obscured by their previous dependable, if somewhat mundane plastic Rubbermaid housing. Why had it never occurred to me that the sage green mini-check was a perfect mix with the Kaufman paisley? Or that the Civil War reproduction floral had the exact mauve background as the quilted twill I bought on that trip to Portland? Dozens of new designs are being conceived before my eyes and I am suddenly, completely, utterly overwhelmed by choice. When my fabric was hidden, life was simple. I worked with whatever fabric had been so fortunate as to have been chosen for a reprieve. But now...now that ALL my fabric is unfettered, they call my name from their open shelving..."Pick me!", "No, pick ME!" I can hardly think for the voices of toile, gingham, florals, geometrics, flannels, satins, taffetas and metallics calling for my attention. It's like the siren song of Homer's Odyssey. I must strap myself securely to my serger to avoid being overwhelmed by their melodic temptations.

It's enough to make me reopen the Rubbermaid Alcatraz.....

Charity

PS - I'll add a picture of my Fabric Pantry soon!

Old Stuff

I love Old Stuff. I come by it honestly as my mother was an antique collector. I collect a variety of vintage items, particularly those from the 20s-40s. There are the vintage tablecloths, tea towels, pillowcases, aprons, gloves, hats and hat boxes, floral tole trays, bird prints, Franciscan Desert Rose china and so much more. What does that have to do with sewing??

Well, I particularly love vintage fabrics, trims and buttons. I try to incorporate them into my designs as often as I can. I have 3 huge Rubbermaid containers full of vintage tablecloths, fabrics, pillowcases, embroidered linens and such that I hope someday will become adorable children's wear. Because I can't bear cutting into such treasures, I only use textiles that have some imperfection or damage, dodging such when laying out my designs. The really good stuff I save for my personal home decorating use.

Currently I am working on an adorable little girl's "picnic set." It is made from a 40s era tablecloth with a rose motif. There is a darling barn jacket made from the tablecloth with a matching 50s styled crop top to wear underneath. Perky gingham shorts with red rickrack trim complete the ensemble. I'll post a picture when I get it done!

Next, I hope to pull out an embroidered ladies sweater from the fifties. Cream boiled wool with lavish embroidered burgundy flowers. I plan to restyle it into a little girl's bolero jacket and pair it with a burgundy taffeta party dress with, as a nod to its 50s beginnings, a crinoline underskirt.

Then there is the gorgeous embroidered dresser scarf that is screaming to become a side-tied pinafore. And the bluebird pillowcase that needs to be made into a tote. And the vintage rayon polka dot fabric that would make a great pair of wide-legged cropped pants. Then there's the barkcloth with a future as a cropped jean jacket.... Ah, vintage textiles. So much history, not enough time.